Breeding requires a separate spawning tank that protects the young from parents and other fish. A 20 L tank is adequate. You need only a simple sponge air-lift filter, a light, and a heater (though the latter may not be necessary if the water naturally reaches the right temperature; see below). Add a few large plants as décor. Do not use substrate—this simplifies maintenance, even though wild fish spawn in dense vegetation. Instead, lay fine mesh on the bottom to let eggs fall through. This setup protects the eggs from being eaten by the parents and makes it easy to collect them. Place a spawning pair in the tank. Cool water at 18–20°C, slightly acidic pH (6.0–6.5), and a diet of live or frozen meat foods will trigger breeding. Frequent gravel cleaning is essential: in a confined space, water fouls quickly. The female lays eggs in batches of 10–20 daily over two weeks. Gently remove each batch and transfer it to a separate container—a shallow tray with 1–2 cm of water works well—and add 1–3 drops of methylene blue depending on volume. This prevents fungal infection. Keep the tray dark and warm; eggs are light-sensitive. Incubation takes 18–22 days. You can also place eggs on moist peat and store them in darkness at the right temperature. Fry hatch in batches, not all at once. Move newly hatched fry to the spawning tank once the parents are removed. After two days, offer your first food: microscopic organisms like brine shrimp nauplii and paramecium. In the second week, switch to live or frozen brine shrimp and daphnia. As during spawning, prioritize water cleanliness. Without an effective filter, clean the spawning tank and do partial water changes at least every few days.